A trip to Bruges and Ypres

While a constant threat, COVID-19 is subsiding enough in Europe that borders are open between EU countries and travel is allowed. After non-stop work for months, R and I decided we needed a wee break and headed to Belgium last weekend. You've heard of the John McCrae poem, "In Flanders Fields"? Ypres is literally in Flanders Fields. Bruges is a beautiful medieval city about an hour from Ypres. As a quick reminder, here's the poem:

In Flanders Fields

In Flanders fields the poppies blow

Between the crosses, row on row,

    That mark our place; and in the sky

    The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago

We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,

    Loved and were loved, and now we lie,

        In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:

To you from failing hands we throw

    The torch; be yours to hold it high.

    If ye break faith with us who die

We shall not sleep, though poppies grow

        In Flanders fields.

We learned in Ypres that the war itself - the nitrogen in the explosives, the lime in the ruined buildings, the blood and bone of the fallen soldiers (900,000 British alone) and animals - created a perfect environment for poppies to flourish. There weren't all that many poppies before the war, but during and after? A lot. The poppy became a symbol of WWI, and of remembering veterans.

We couldn't have asked for more beautiful weather, and the weekend was full of history, scenery, and quiet reflection. It was perfect.  A few photos:

In a British cemetery in Ypres.

It makes me cry.

The ramparts that surround Ypres.

The passageway between the Cloth House and the Cathedral in Ypres.

The Cloth Guild House in Ypres - completely destroyed in WWI and subsequently rebuilt.

We stayed in a hotel right on the square in Ypres - this was the view from our window.

Another view as the sun was setting.

This is the Menin Gate - a monument to the 54,000+ fallen British war dead. There is a ceremony there every night.

The cathedral in Bruges.

One of the many bridges that straddle the canals in Bruges.

Couple selfie!

Taken right after we explored the city through a canal boat trip!

Our canal trip starting point.

A quintessential Flemish-style building. We were told you can tell this building is authentic because the windows are large on the bottom and get progressively smaller the higher you go. The large windows were to allow maximum viewing when the inhabitants were showing off their wealth by having fabulous parties.

Another view - gorgeous!

Schengen

On Sunday R and I headed out to Schengen, a small town in the southeastern part of Luxembourg. We had heard of the town and knew its historic European significance, but were surprised when we happened upon a commemorative ceremony celebrating the 35th anniversary of the signing of the Schengen Agreement. It was just luck that we had decided to explore the town on that day.

Other than those gathered for the commemoration, there weren't a lot of people around - which made it a perfect day for hiking around the town, free from any crowds or other tourists. The weather was mild and cool, and we enjoyed a couple of hours of sweeping landscape and vineyards.

The Moselle.

I loved the wake of the swan's glide.

A piece of the Berlin wall.

A sculpture representing all of the countries in the Schengen Area - I assume that people from these countries place the padlocks on the space depicting their homeland.

It's a wish of so many.

Two trips to Germany

The German border opened up on May 15, allowing unfettered traffic to and from Luxembourg. R and I, being a bit stir-crazy after spending so much time flopping around not doing much, decided to brave the roads and see what there was to see. We drove to Mettlach on a Monday and had such a good time we went to Cochem less than a week later.

Germany is beautiful. The people seemed to adopt a shockingly laissez-faire attitude when it came to social distancing and mask-wearing, but it could be that we're just used to seeing the respectful and law-abiding Luxembourgers strictly adhering to the advice of the government and wearing masks everywhere. Whatever our perception, we gamely stood in line for ice cream in both towns, in fairly close proximity to others, with no ill effects. We enjoyed a schnitzel lunch in Cochem, and lovely views in both towns.

First, Mettlach:

Okay, this is actually Luxembourg, with Luxembourgish cows. But what a beautiful country!

Such a gorgeous view. This is the Sauer River.

Hairstyle courtesy of COVID quarantine.

Such a goof.

In Mettlach proper.

And then, Cochem:

An impressive castle on the hill - built in the 11th century.

The view from the castle grounds.

Another view - this is the Moselle River.

Vineyards!

And another view looking up!

Esch-sur-Sûre

There's nothing quite like hiking in Luxembourg. There are so many trails - in the woods, across highways, through farmers' fields, along village alleys.... They're all very well marked and easy to follow, mapped out and logical. They can be a few kilometres or many. You'll be blissfully hiking along, go around a bend, and suddenly be rewarded with a magnificent view of farmland, rolling hills, or centuries-old fortifications. I don't think I'll ever tire of it.

Esch-sur-Sûre is an area in northern Luxembourg with a beautiful lake and a quaint village. The "Sûre" of Esch-sur-Sûre is the river - it becomes the "Sauer" River in Germany. It's less than an hour's drive from our house in Luxembourg City, but seems a world away.

Happy Anniversary to us!

Lo, these 33 years ago, R and I met, fell in love, and married within 10 weeks. All these years later, he's still my rock. We've moved no fewer than 16 times, raised two amazing daughters, gone through multiple careers, lost parents, visited 30+ countries together, and still remain friends. What a guy.

I couldn't decide which photo I like better, so I'm including both. :)

Life in Luxembourg during COVID-19

...and then a worldwide pandemic hit. There we were, just living a quiet life in Luxembourg, enjoying croissants and baguettes and wine, minding our own business, when COVID-19 made an entrance with a flourish, settled in for the dance, and proceeded to outstay her welcome.

Although Luxembourg is not a country that has required me to organize evacuations and charter flights, I'm certainly keeping busy helping U.S. citizens understand what their options are in returning home to the United States. I'm alternating going in to the embassy and teleworking from home.

It's surreal, but we're hunkered down - going out only when necessary and wearing our masks (a Luxembourg mandate if you think you'll be within about six feet of another human). Part of the "necessary" in "going out only when necessary" includes going for walks to keep from going crazy.

But going for walks has to be tempered with my tolerance for the Olympic-grade pollen that seems to be wafting in my general direction at any given moment. I suffered from seasonal-allergy-induced asthma years ago, but thought I was over that. Not so. Last week I had to request an inhaler from the med unit in Brussels. Asthma makes me cough, especially when I'm lying down (aka sleeping). And it's a dry cough, and it gives me a headache, two symptoms that I'm watching closely.

Over the last couple of weeks, R and I have been able to walk outside of our home - a key ingredient to my sanity.

About two weeks ago.

I love the woods here in Luxembourg - this is about a 1.5 mile walk from our house.

The old Villeroy and Boch factory.

In the cemetery near our house - this is where I discovered my allergies were back - in force.

That quintessential view of Luxembourg - last weekend.

Just a lovely path through the city.

Always remember to look up!

The least welcoming church on the planet - St. Quirin.

If you know anything about me, you know I LOVE lilacs.

A Greek Orthodox church - walking home from work yesterday.

Preach.