Schengen

On Sunday R and I headed out to Schengen, a small town in the southeastern part of Luxembourg. We had heard of the town and knew its historic European significance, but were surprised when we happened upon a commemorative ceremony celebrating the 35th anniversary of the signing of the Schengen Agreement. It was just luck that we had decided to explore the town on that day.

Other than those gathered for the commemoration, there weren't a lot of people around - which made it a perfect day for hiking around the town, free from any crowds or other tourists. The weather was mild and cool, and we enjoyed a couple of hours of sweeping landscape and vineyards.

The Moselle.

I loved the wake of the swan's glide.

A piece of the Berlin wall.

A sculpture representing all of the countries in the Schengen Area - I assume that people from these countries place the padlocks on the space depicting their homeland.

It's a wish of so many.

Two trips to Germany

The German border opened up on May 15, allowing unfettered traffic to and from Luxembourg. R and I, being a bit stir-crazy after spending so much time flopping around not doing much, decided to brave the roads and see what there was to see. We drove to Mettlach on a Monday and had such a good time we went to Cochem less than a week later.

Germany is beautiful. The people seemed to adopt a shockingly laissez-faire attitude when it came to social distancing and mask-wearing, but it could be that we're just used to seeing the respectful and law-abiding Luxembourgers strictly adhering to the advice of the government and wearing masks everywhere. Whatever our perception, we gamely stood in line for ice cream in both towns, in fairly close proximity to others, with no ill effects. We enjoyed a schnitzel lunch in Cochem, and lovely views in both towns.

First, Mettlach:

Okay, this is actually Luxembourg, with Luxembourgish cows. But what a beautiful country!

Such a gorgeous view. This is the Sauer River.

Hairstyle courtesy of COVID quarantine.

Such a goof.

In Mettlach proper.

And then, Cochem:

An impressive castle on the hill - built in the 11th century.

The view from the castle grounds.

Another view - this is the Moselle River.

Vineyards!

And another view looking up!

Esch-sur-Sûre

There's nothing quite like hiking in Luxembourg. There are so many trails - in the woods, across highways, through farmers' fields, along village alleys.... They're all very well marked and easy to follow, mapped out and logical. They can be a few kilometres or many. You'll be blissfully hiking along, go around a bend, and suddenly be rewarded with a magnificent view of farmland, rolling hills, or centuries-old fortifications. I don't think I'll ever tire of it.

Esch-sur-Sûre is an area in northern Luxembourg with a beautiful lake and a quaint village. The "Sûre" of Esch-sur-Sûre is the river - it becomes the "Sauer" River in Germany. It's less than an hour's drive from our house in Luxembourg City, but seems a world away.

Happy Anniversary to us!

Lo, these 33 years ago, R and I met, fell in love, and married within 10 weeks. All these years later, he's still my rock. We've moved no fewer than 16 times, raised two amazing daughters, gone through multiple careers, lost parents, visited 30+ countries together, and still remain friends. What a guy.

I couldn't decide which photo I like better, so I'm including both. :)

Life in Luxembourg during COVID-19

...and then a worldwide pandemic hit. There we were, just living a quiet life in Luxembourg, enjoying croissants and baguettes and wine, minding our own business, when COVID-19 made an entrance with a flourish, settled in for the dance, and proceeded to outstay her welcome.

Although Luxembourg is not a country that has required me to organize evacuations and charter flights, I'm certainly keeping busy helping U.S. citizens understand what their options are in returning home to the United States. I'm alternating going in to the embassy and teleworking from home.

It's surreal, but we're hunkered down - going out only when necessary and wearing our masks (a Luxembourg mandate if you think you'll be within about six feet of another human). Part of the "necessary" in "going out only when necessary" includes going for walks to keep from going crazy.

But going for walks has to be tempered with my tolerance for the Olympic-grade pollen that seems to be wafting in my general direction at any given moment. I suffered from seasonal-allergy-induced asthma years ago, but thought I was over that. Not so. Last week I had to request an inhaler from the med unit in Brussels. Asthma makes me cough, especially when I'm lying down (aka sleeping). And it's a dry cough, and it gives me a headache, two symptoms that I'm watching closely.

Over the last couple of weeks, R and I have been able to walk outside of our home - a key ingredient to my sanity.

About two weeks ago.

I love the woods here in Luxembourg - this is about a 1.5 mile walk from our house.

The old Villeroy and Boch factory.

In the cemetery near our house - this is where I discovered my allergies were back - in force.

That quintessential view of Luxembourg - last weekend.

Just a lovely path through the city.

Always remember to look up!

The least welcoming church on the planet - St. Quirin.

If you know anything about me, you know I LOVE lilacs.

A Greek Orthodox church - walking home from work yesterday.

Preach.

MUDAM - The Contemporary Art Museum of Luxembourg

Tonight I attended the opening of an artist exhibition at the MUDAM - Musée dʻArt Moderne - in Luxembourg. The artist is Jean-Marie Biwer - you can read more about him here - and the exhibit was Dʻaprès nature.

The paintings on display were from private collections, and they were beautiful. Many were large scale, which I like, but a few were collections of multiple smaller canvasses, combined to make a whole. They were striking, and I was drawn to them, as well. The work was varied and interesting. I went with an embassy friend, we were served a glass (or two) of crémant, and we spent a lovely hour or so soaking in Luxembourg through the perspective of this artist.

I loved this collection of tiny tree paintings!

Luxembourg is surprisingly rural. Drive along highways and youʻll see this view.

This is Luxembourg all over.

I love the color of the sky.

We liked this one in particular. Doesnʻt it look like something youʻd see while lying on your back under a tree?

Porto

Oh, Porto! What a beautiful Portuguese city full of history and amazing architecture, not to mention enough blue tile to give Delft a serious run for its money. A short (just 2.5 hours via Portuguese Airlines and inexpensive!) hop from Luxembourg City and we were in that colorful city on the sea. We spent three and half days exploring the sites, sampling the port, and enjoying weather a bit sunnier and a bit warmer than Luxembourg in the winter. Be prepared for many photos below (only a fraction of what I actually took!).

In the Porto Town Hall.

In the train station.

Inside the Cathedral.

The Cathedral interior.

The Cathedral - outside in the courtyard.

Gorgeous!

A monastery.

Inside the monastery courtyard.

On the teleferico.

A view of the city from the opposite side of the river.

Another view.

The best lemon meringue pie on the planet.

Random street art!

Another view.

And another. I took a million photos.

Inside the Libraria Lello, where JK Rowling hung out when she lived in Porto teaching English,
back before her Harry Potter days.

Another view of the stairs - theyʻre made of plaster.

Beautiful!

I like how people go about their lives while Iʻm having my photo taken. :)

The ceiling in the bookstore.

This is a Portuguese Francesinha - made with bread, stuffed with a variety of meats,
covered in cheese and swimming in a tomato beer sauce. It was rather delicious.

Inside what is now the Chamber of Commerce, but was once the Customs House. This is the Arabesque Room.

The Arabesque Room.

Just a painting on the ceiling.

And the tile! So. Many. Tiny. Pieces.

I canʻt imagine how long this must take to create.

Portuguese cat. 

Prince Henry the Navigator, who never actually went on many sea voyages.

All the blue tile!

The Clérigos Church.

The Clérigos Tower.

A view from the Clérigos Tower.

Another view - my favorite.

And yet another.

Inside the Clérigos Church.

The altar.

Fountain and tile covered church - about three blocks from where we stayed.

A close-up of the same church.

And another.

Deli and wine shop!

Chapel of Souls.

On the street.

 

In a park on our last full day in Porto.